Watering and Care Instructions for Trees, Shrubs and Perennials
Proper watering is critical to your plant's health. Regular watering will also help to insure maximum flowering and proper growth . The following instruct ions are just guidelines. No watering schedule is a substitute for observing the condition of your newly planted plants every day. The concept behind this watering schedule is to insure deep root watering.
Reason for deep watering
Frequent, shallow watering (rain, sprinklers etc . leads to shallow root systems . Plants with shallow root systems are not very drought tolerant.
Watering guidelines for 1st year plantings
For Best Results, use an open-ended hose placed at the base of the plant and running at a slow trickle for the time indicated in the chart below.
If you prefer to use soaker-hoses. they should be wound through the planting bed and wrapped loosely around the trunks of plants. They must be left running 2-3 hours. twice per week.
Gator Bags are also an option for watering. They need to be filled as often as if you were watering with a hose. IMPORTANT REMINDER: the gator bag acts like an umbrella and will not allow natural rainwater to soak in.
Watering times based on plant sizes
CONTAINER PLANTS
1-3 gal pot: 10 minutes (most perennials)
5-10 gal pot: 20 minutes (medium size bushes)
15 gal or larger pot: 30 minutes (large size bushes and most ornamental trees)
BALLED AND BURLAPED PLANTS
1.75" - 2.5" caliper: 45-60 minutes
3" or larger caliper : 60-80 minutes
If you are planting in the SPRING:
Water 3 times per week for the first 3 weeks, whether it rains or not
After the first 3 weeks water twice per week, whether it rains or not
If you are planting in the FALL
DECIDUOUS PLANTS
If the plant still has leaves, following the watering guidelines until the leaves fall off
If the plant has lost its leaves. soak roughly one time after planting
Begin watering again in the spring when the new foliage appears. Following tho watering guidelines
EVERGREEN PLANTS
Follow the watering guide lines until December 31 (or weather does not allow.)
Begin watering again in the spring when new growth appears. Following the water guidelines
Conditions Requiring More Frequent Watering
Windy locations - wind dries plants out more quickly
Slopes - plants planted on a slope will dry out more quickly since the water runs downhill away from the roots Be sure to keep the hose pressure at a very slow trickle by placing it above the plant on the slope and water more frequently
Overhangs - plants placed under a roof overhang will need more water since the soil in that area tends to be drier as it does not receive any rain
Things to Avoid
Oscillating sprinkler- While excellent for watering lawns which have a relatively shallow roots system, a sprinkler does not provide sufficient water for deeper rooted plants such as trees and shrubs and can contribute to foliar fungal diseases
Bucket method- A bucket of water poured around a plant can be applied too quickly to soak in before most of it runs off
Watering guidelines for plants in ground Longer than 1 year
A bit of common sense comes into play in determining when and how much to water. Along with weather conditions.
The old sticking the finger in the soil test (about 3" - 4" down) is a good method. If the soil is dry to the touch then water. If it is moist do not water,
Observe the weather (Is it a normal or an unusual year in terms of moisture and temperature?)
Consider the type of plant (Does it like dry conditions, normal moisture. or a lot of moisture?)
Watering Instructions For New Turf Grass and Sod
Weeks 1 & 2
The key to establishing new sod/seed is to keep it properly watered for the first month. Immediately after installing sod/seed, water thoroughly making it spongy to the step. The new sod/seed should be kept thoroughly wet to a depth of 4" to 6" and watered 2 to 3 times a day during the first 7 to 14 days depending on the season. Lift a corner of the sod to determine the depth of moisture. In the first week, it is very important to keep the new sod/seed damp. During this time stay off the sod/seed so it can take root and you do not sink in and leave depressions from your foot steps. At the end of week 2 dry up the yard enough so you can mow if higher than 3.5".
Weeks 3 & 4
The following 2 weeks are used to transition from frequent daily watering to fewer cycles per day and increase the number of days between watering. During week 3 reduce watering to 1-2 times per day and skip a day between watering if the new sod/seed is not drying out. By week 4 water 1 time every other day. After week 4 your new yard should be ready to go 2 to 3 days between watering. Water your lawn in the evening or early morning when less evaporation occurs. To reduce run-off on hills and promote deep root growth, reduce watering times in half. One hour later, run the irrigation cycle again and apply the rest of the water. This allows the water to soak into heavy soils.
Rest of the Season
Your new lawn will need more water the first growing season and especially the first 6 months. As it roots deeper over the course of a year, it will need less water. If your lawn looks dry, it probably needs watering. The key to new sod/seed care during this time is deep watering less frequently. This will help the roots grow down and develop a deep root system that uses less water. .
Mow if Grass exceeds 3.5"
Your new lawn should be mowed at the end of week 2 or if you lawn exceeds 3 1/2" tall. Back off on the watering so the turf is dry to the touch and firm enough to walk on without sinking in. If your new lawn reaches over 3 1/2" mow off a third of the length even if it has not been two weeks. Do not cut shorter than 2" for the first few times you mow. Exercise caution the first time you mow so you do not damage or pull up the sod. If some of the sod does move around, don’t worry. Just put it back in place and it will grow in.